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Feel free to call the Chatham Vineyards on Church Creek Merlot by its more familiar name, Chatham Cherry.
Chatham vintner Jon Wehner first planted a California clone of Merlot #3, the only clone available at the time, that produced fruit distinguishable by a cherry color and flavor back in 1999. It was also very soft and approachable.
“People who have been drinking Chatham wine for decades know what I’m talking about,” Jon says. “Our Merlot has this really bright cherry with nice fresh acidity and a pronounced red fruit. It’s very drinkable and enjoyable and that’s what people like about it.”
In 2001, Jon planted two French clones, #181 and #343, to add to the complexity of the Merlot. That’s made for more currant and blackberry, a deeper color and additional tannin concentration as well as more black fruit.
Blending the grapes from the initial planting with the French clones preserves the Chatham Cherry while adding complexity. “You get a spiciness that goes with the Merlot and a clove, nutmeg and cedar,” Jon says.
Merlot is somewhat undervalued in this country. While this red wine is the backbone of Bordeaux, its reputation took a hit nationally following the 2004 premiere of the cult movie “Sideways,” which increased sales for Pinot Noir when the filmed lead character, a wine snob, chose that and panned Merlot for being uninteresting.
Chatham’s following, however, continued to remain loyal to its Merlot.
“You can always tell it’s from Chatham because it has the Chatham Cherry with complexity,” Jon says. “It tastes more like a French Merlot, not a California Merlot. It’s not over extracted, or dense or a fruit bomb. It tastes like the vineyard. It tastes likes grapes. There is a certain elegance.”
Jon is careful not to over-extract Merlot, the workhorse in the vineyard that fruits and yields well. “Merlot is also one of the great blending grapes for Vintner’s Blend,” he says. “It adds a softness and approachability that doesn’t come from other varietals.” Mills’ favorite Vintner’s Blend vintages are all Merlot-based.
Jon will often add 3% of Petit Verdot or Cabernet Franc to the Merlot to lift the acidity and darken the color. Occasionally, he incorporates the same percentage of Cabernet Franc to give it a little more mystique along with a hint of herb and pepper.
Chatham Merlot is aged in young French oak Cadus barrels that keep the fruit forward. Jon’s first tasting in November produces a coffee, mocha, chocolate flavor. “It’s warming and you can see how it will integrate beautifully with some of other varietals,” he says. “Before you put the barrels to bed, you can really start to taste the wine because the primary fermentation is almost over. You want to make sure it’s clean and put these subtle reminders in your head of how it tastes and start thinking about how you will blend it.”
Precise blending is the key to consistency.
“I blend with pipettes and beakers all toward keeping the integrity of the varietal,” Jon says. “At the end of the day we want it to taste like a Chatham Merlot.”
Jon recently opened a bottle of the 2002 Merlot while his eldest son, Jon Henry, watched. The 2002 vintage is a 100% Merlot varietal and sentimental to him and his wife, Mills, as are the ones from 2004 and 2006 that mark the births of their other children, William and Lydia.
“We harvested the grapes two weeks before he was born,” Jon says. “I thought about the people who were involved at harvest, the crew that worked with us. My dad was alive. My mom was out there picking grapes. Mills was driving the tractor. That’s what people love about wine. It’s a time capsule.”
Chatham’s Merlot is an ideal summer wine that pairs well with seafood. It’s refreshing to enjoy outdoors on a hot night. It’s also a wonderful red when grilling during the summer.
It’s Chatham Cherry in a bottle!